Friday, June 5, 2009

week 6 logs













week 6 photos on flickr
includes Rameshwaram, Dhanushkodi, Neyyar Dam, etc.

Day 36 may 29 friday
Neyyar Dam, lions safari park, steve Irwin crocodile rehabilitation center
Morning satsang, yoga is there, so we do and then have a hearty brunch – jedi is feeling nauseous from major chest congestion, ananya does some pranic healing – jedi feels better and we head for lions safari park – first we go to the silent walk place and try to see agastya mountain, but as usual just the main bits are covered by clouds – so we go to the pavilion and ananya takes her panoramas – we then go for the lion safari in the boat – see 6 of the 8 lions up close.. as much as one can see through a caged bus – then we see magars (crocs) in the steve Irwin place – some deer also. Thrilling.
Bunk the evening satsang and crash.

Day 37 may 30 saturday
Neyyar Dam
Jedi’s chest has gotten worse – bunks classes and goes to see doctor who gives like 5 meds – some to be taken for 6 months! – ananya goes for the classes – on taking meds, jedi starts melting from inside and sneezes the entire day – jedi plays civilization – ananya starts reading bhagavat gita (Sivananda version), again

Day 38 may 31 sunday
Neyyar Dam
Sposed to leave today- while looking at the map to decide route, jedi coughs hard and pulls a shoulder muscle - same as last time – agony – ananya does some healing, feels better but more is needed. Decide to stay for another day- cant ride with thsi shoulder. Jedi gets a good full body ayurvedic massage and rests the day – nikhila comes over to talk, shortly followed by sasi who goes at it for 2.5 hrs. good to hear stuff.

Day 39 jun 1 monday
Neyyar Dam – Kattakada – Nedumangadu – Kolaithupuzha - Sengkottai – 5 falls/courtalam - Tenkasi – Tirunelveli – Tuticorin
NH208, NH7
A280 kms
no yoga session - pack and go to kattakada and buy meds at kottakal arya vaidya – ananya is addicted to chanting gods’ & gurus’ praises and sings bhajans incessantly, also pops dairy milk éclairs incessantly – jedi tries to remember what non-veg tastes like while we eat iddiyappams and peas curry - bhagaoed from scenic bridge side location in Kolaithupuzha by stupid policemen, jedi calls them idiots –Kolaithupuzha is gorgeous with teak, rubber and other plantations. lush place.
Ride road over saddle dam near Kolatupula Dam – eat mangostines at Courtalam 5 Falls, which turned out to be more of a popular bathing destination than culmination of five waterfalls – jedi remembers what mutton tasted like when eating kuska– the end of hills and chill weather. just heat from now on. had managed to escape the heat, but the rains have given dhaga and have to start heading north.
reach beach by old harbour in Tuticorin, dark blue sea, gulls fly around, cricket match is on, moon is up at 5 pm, man is shitting – check in and have mega large dinner



Day 40 jun 2 tuesday
Tuticorin – Vembar – Kilakarai – Rameshwaram – Danuskodi – Rameshwaram
NH49, white roads
212 Kms
take the white coastal roads – Salt fields and fishy smell all the way – mega wind constantly tries to flatten bike - this is the land of the street hawks/Kites/eagles, they’re everywhere, hunting for fish in the sea, or flying in one place –amazing sights of them flying/hovering 10 feet over our heads - also mid-air fights over caught fish- when dropped, other bird swoops and catches before it falls to ground, then fight continues...videocam battery no charge
heat, heat, heat – more sea panoramas from what ananya thinks is the ‘engineering marvel’ Pambam bridge to Rameshwaram, railway line goes over the sea just a few ft above the water and even opens up to let ships through – go beyond Rameshwaram to Dhanushkodi Indian Navy Post, no vehicles beyond this point, take rear plank ride in dune buggy truck till actual Dhanushkodi point (Abdul Kalam's birthplace), beautiful blue-green waters of Palk Bay on one side and Gulf of Mannar on the other, can’t see Adam’s Bridge – Sri Lanka (Talaimannar) is 18 kms from this point - next stop is abandoned Dhanushkodi railway station – village was destroyed in 1964 cyclone and they never built it again. church by sea where a sadhu refuses to let the villagers use his sweet well water but gave to visitors – locals grumbling in background– marine national park board says there are sea cows, whales, turtles and sea leeches (in tamil, though looks like sea cucumber) – return to Rameshwaram and find food and place to stay near the temple. Tomorrow tanjavur.

Day 41 jun 3 Wednesday
Rameshwaram, Oviyur, Muttupet, Point Calimere, Velankanni
NH49, ECR
320 Kms
Get woken up at dawn by the temple prayers. Being one of the holiest places for Hindus on Earth (4th most for vaishnavites it seems; char-damPuri in the east, Rameshwaram in the south, Dwarka in the west, and Badrinath in the north) - this is where Ram built his bridge across the seas. also where ram prayed to shiva to forgive him for killing Ravana (apparently shiva's greatest devotee and also a brahmin) . have breakfast and visit the Ramanathaswamy temple with its world famous 1200 m long pillared corridor.
then go see Ramar Padam- ram sighted the front of ravana palace from here and the back from another spot (to be visited by chance later in the day! near Point Calimere).
We then head up the coast towards Point Calimere - another tip of eastern India. quiet roads with little to no traffic - we spot a board for the John de Britto shrine church at Oviyur. so we turn left.
its a big church as expected with two parts, one old and one new. also school and other things.
local old man tells story - around 330 yrs ago he came frm portugal or italy and set up shop here. king of place had 3 wives - john tells him boss - have only one - one of the queens gets pissed and gets him hacked to pieces. later on his relatives come and make up shrine etc. less than 50 years second big church was made. has fest in july simultaneously with Velankanni- his relatives are still living somewhere and come visit. local also tells me to get haircut.
velankanni? hmm. close by. maybe should visit.
we head upto muttupet and then to Pandi where we turn right and curve to point calimere. when we reach, it looks like a smuggler's beach - assumption reinforced by black Bolero that whizzed behind us into cargo area. anyway beach was dirty and the water murky - after 40 days of green, and blue green and all other shades in between, this sea was a downer. saw sunset again in the east.
we leave and visit the vedam... bird santuary and climb up the watch tower and spot spotted deer and few birds. off season for them. See the other Ramar Padam - Ram saw the back of Ravan's palace from here - how we don't know but he was the ultimate man and 7th reincarnation and all that, so he probably could. ananya bit off the heads of some rajasic tam brahms who said ur not hindu, u shouldnt be here.
head off towards velankanni and reach after dark. do a recce and get disappointed. 6 church like buildings and systems similar to all the temples we have visited. another commercialization of religion.
check and watch india pakistan. jedi has new ritual of heating water for his medicines. have VCR for dinner at Mallu place.



Day 42 jun 4 thursday
Velankanni
Wake up early and have meds. go visit the Shrine and Basilica etc. Each structure has a different purpose - tonsure, meditation, confession, - services in different languages. its a religious center almost similar to all others in India, except its Christian or rather another Amman/Mary. same head shaving, vibhuti (sorry holy oil), hundi, archana /mass (70 inr), candle offereing (300 inr) and so on. But end of day, its a faith center and thats what matters.

The shrine is called Our Lady of Good Health - and only Mary to wear a sari! is said to have given 3 apparitions over the years to 3 diff groups here. Mary birthday FYI is Sept 8. also sivananda's bday! :)
eat breakfast and go back and fall asleep in room till 12. jedi says lets stay in today and rest. watch films on hbo rest of day and laze around. have discussions on how our yogic practices have taken a hit but still retained the veggie diet and the other smaller ones. eat icecream and chocolate.